Friday, September 23

Second Week of Surfing Class

My god. The wetsuit worked like a miracle. When I shuffled my feet in the ocean, I could feel that the water was cold.. but once I dived in-- no problem-o! It was ... nice. Not warm, but not cold. My interp had a spring wetsuit and was chattered the whole time! :-X

The waves were... BIG. Thanks to the high tides (the peak is at noon with over 5 feet waves). I am not talking about Hawaiian-sized waves... but the waves were BIG for Mission Beach which is infamously known as the worst beach to surf. It usually have 2 feet waves... it is a good family and sunbathing beach, although. Good place to boogie-board.

Surfline's ForecastSURF: 3-5 ft. - waist to head high' fair
AIR/WATER: 62°-70°/66°-70°

Once I paddled into the ocean... the waves were brutal, I am telling you. I was becoming very successful and pro at doing the seaturtle flip! It was hard to stay ahead of the waves instead of being pulled back toward the shores. I was able to kneel on my board... some kids already were able to stand up on their boards... I was jealous of them. (not entirely, but I was like "aw, COM'ON! Why cannot I do that too?!")

My interp did stand back for a while to make sure I was doing right to the instructors' content... once the intructors gave me a roger, she took the board to the beach. She did find it hard! She said she liked the "whitecaps" better because it was easy for her to practice to get on her board and kneel... getting comfortable with her board, bascially.

There were several occassions when I just laid still on my board and let the waves pushing me toward the shores. and then finally the fins caught on the sand and I fell forward... and still was pushed by the waves. The waves' current were strong ALL WAY to the berm! My goodness.

I think I will post weekly about my surfing class. :) Keep an eye for the next weekly report!

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