Sorry about my belated weekly surf post... I will try my best to remember much as I can from last Friday.
Last Friday, the waves were LOW-- 2 feet and it weren't rapid-- it came in several rows of waves then a placid ocean... which was quite a break for us to paddle in further to catch better waves!
It was sunny when I arrived the place. Zipped myself into a wetsuit and grabbed myself a foamy surfboard. Trougged to the beach with the class. Paddled into the water... tried to get up on the board. Fell out once in a while. Had help from an instructor (who I knew from my art classes at SDSU... it was weird to have him being an authoriative figure). He figured out my problem and told me to get a size bigger for my board. I was using 6-7feet board. So this Friday I am grabbing a 8-feet board and see if it works. After his advice, I tried even MORE hard to get up on my feet on the board... and I DID! but only for like five seconds before I wiped out. Several classmates cheered for me. Aw, thanks! I got brusies again. I don't know if I did mention it before but every time I went surfing, I always ended up having two brusises, each on the sides where my pelvic is at. OUCH. Last Friday I ended up having more bruises on my knees (from trying to get up on my board) so an improvement!
As the class went on, the fog rolled in and we couldn't see any further than 15 feet! I could see people's figures onshore, but I couldnot make out their faces. That was FOGGY. My interpreter said that this was the perfect setting for a sharkbite to occur. She is totally a paranoia!
But I would say my ability to surf has improved.. I was able to get on my board up faster than before which is vital to the short-interval waves at Mission Beach. :)