The waves were MUCH better on Friday than on Wednesday. I went on Wednesday to reprimand my absence the week before (I was swamped with tutoring, papers to type etc.) I wish I never go last Wednesday. It was cloudy, dizzly, and COLD. The water was 63 degrees and there were no steady waves-- the waves came in all directions-- and not in rows! Some waves decided to speed up and swallowed up waves in front of them. My hands and feet were freezing to the core and that did affect me later when I realized that my skin did feel warm yet I feel dead-cold at the core. And YES I did wear a wetsuit. Some surfer guy at a forum dissed me about not wearing a wetsuit and all that-- he must think I was stupid enough because I am a girl. I get that sexist vibe from him... not cool at all. [Flipping a flying bird at him]
Now-- we are all beat up from Wednesday and move on to Friday-- MUCH BETTER. The day was sunny and breezy and the waves were GORGEOUS-- even though they were blown out but compared to Wednesday waves, these waves were gorgeous to me. Did successfully stand up several times while surfing on the mush.
I realized that I gotta to be quick to get up on the board while the wave last... if I fumble, just keep doing it-- I will regain my balance and composition as I get on my feet. No worries-- HANG LOOSE...!